House Heating Solutions

Okay so it’s wintertime in America and even though most of our readers are here in San Diego (the weather is golden year around) it doesn’t mean that this time of the year it’s not freezing from time to time. Here are some potential issues your home may chilly.

  • Maybe your living room is large and the wooden or tile floor is like ice every morning.
  • You could have a room that does not have much exposure to the sun.
  • Lack of Weather-stripping: Your doors and windows may have a drift as a result of.

So let’s get down to the nitty gritty, as a room addition contractor here is what we did for a recent client whom had a unique case where they had all the “nuts and bolts” in place but still wasn’t content. SJB Construction Incorporated decided to craft a drop down ceiling with additional insulation. Automatically upon insulation being installed you could feel a major difference.

Basic Materials (Excluding Tools, ect.)

  • 2x6x12’s
  • 2x4x8
  • Drywall-Ultra light 1/2”
  • Insulation
  • 40 Minute Quick Dry Mud
  • Red Dot Hot Mud

How to craft to the new drop-down heated ceiling

Without a solid plan of action, it is the blind leading the blind so start with outlining where you will place your new structure.

1. Using a blue chalk line SJB Construction Inc. snapped lines on the existing rafters to account for a level drop down ceiling. (At least 7 inches to be safe from top of roofing so you have enough room for insulation and 2×6’s)

2.Once you nailed off your box frame of 2×6 to the existing rafters (parallel/vertical) you are now ready to cut blocks so you can run additional 2×6 horizontal. (Think of a “t” with 2×6 running both vertical and horizontal). A: First, B: Second once you fasten blocking.

This just provides additional backing to screw into for the drywall.

3. Make sure you run ahead and mark where your horizontal 2×6’s will end. You do not want to make additional drywall cuts. Let the drywall work for you, do not work for the drywall.
See Picture above: Third Stud running horizontal will be the first full sheet of drywall edge into new sheet. Make sure your stud is centered at 48” so you have backing for both sheets of drywall.

*Do not have the edge of 2×6 at 48” you will then only have backing for one sheet of drywall and no room to split the difference.*

4. Electrical: If applicable
You want to make sure to run any electrical if before you insulate. You will need a drill bit to drill through the upper region of your 2×6 to run the electrical to can lights, fans ect.

Tip: Drill upper side of 2×6 to keep integrity in place.

Sweet you are now halfway to heaven…

5. Insulation: So now you are ready for the insulation which you can either take on yourself or hire a contractor. Contractors are usually the most efficient. For about $100 more you can have installed versus dealing with itchy fiberglass and having to run and get the material.

6. Drywall: Once you have the insulation you can now start the drywall phase. Ultralight 1/2 4×8 is great for this type of job. Typical Drywall weighs about 80lb. a sheet, ultralight weighs about 45lb. per sheet.

Finish the job by hanging (screws 6 inches on joints, 12 inches on center), mudding, taping, priming and painting your new drywall. Install any necessary can lights and fans to appropriate electrical wiring.

There you have a new room that is nice and toasty. We noticed a major difference in this client’s home!

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